Not what sellers are asking. What buyers paid, from completed sales in the last 30 days.
A real reading on a real card. That gap is most of the hobby.
Scan a card Free. Three scans before we ask for an email.You’re at a show or a shop with a card in your hand and about ninety seconds to decide.
Photograph the front and back, or type the card. CardGauge identifies it and shows what copies have actually sold for, alongside what sellers are currently asking. Reading the back matters — the year, card number and set are printed there, and the front is just artwork.
Type what the seller wants. CardGauge works out the most you can pay and still make money after selling fees and postage, and shows what you’d keep if it sells low, typical or high. On a card whose sales mix several versions it won’t invent a ceiling — but if the price is under even the cheapest version, it says so.
If recent sales mix base cards with parallels, autographs or short prints, CardGauge says so instead of averaging them into a number. On a card with too few clean sales it refuses to price rather than guessing. A wrong price is worse than no price when you’re about to hand over money.
Print any result, or save it as a PDF. It carries the sales the price rests on, the ones CompGuard threw out and why, the buy ceiling and the reasoning under it. A phone does not survive an argument over a price at a dealer’s table; a sheet of paper does.
Log what you bought, what you paid and what it’s worth, table by table. Open it before you go and it keeps working when the hall’s wi-fi doesn’t.
Scanning a PSA barcode is built and currently blocked at PSA’s end while we wait on API access. Type the cert number or the card details from the label in the meantime — it prices the same way.
The cards are in front of you and you want to know what you own, what it’s worth, and what’s still missing.
Keep what you scan. The binder tracks what your collection is worth, and every card in it is re-priced overnight from completed sales. When the sales for a card are mixed or too thin to trust, it keeps yesterday’s number rather than writing a bad one. Free accounts hold 25 cards; Pro removes the limit.
One page for everything that changed while you were away: any card you keep that is listed below what it is worth paying, what your saved cards did overnight, and the market for names you follow. Follow a player or a set — Ohtani, Charizard, 1986 Fleer — and it shows you what actually sold. Only you can see what you follow.
Every night CardGauge works out what each card in your binder is worth paying, then checks what is actually listed. If a copy is sitting under that ceiling you get told, with the listing attached. It is the same engine that answers “what should I pay?” at a table — so a thin set of sales or an unconfirmed card produces silence rather than a nudge, and a two-dollar gap is not worth waking you up for.
Look up a set — 1986 Topps, 2024 Prizm, Pokémon Base Set — and see every card in it by number and name. Cards in your binder are checked off, so you can see exactly what you’re still missing.
Already have your collection in Excel or Google Sheets? Upload the CSV and CardGauge reads it, matches what it can and prices it. It fills your binder up to the free 25 — Pro takes the cap off, which is what most people importing a spreadsheet need. Export back out whenever you like; it’s your data either way.
An email when a card in your binder moves more than 10%, and a weekly note on what your collection is worth. Anything found under your buy ceiling rides in the same message rather than a second one — one email a day at most, never one per card.
For any card you look up: what you’d clear selling it raw after fees, what you’d clear at a PSA 9 after grading costs, and whether the difference is worth the wait. Add what you paid and it takes that out too.
What you paid, what it’s worth now, and what you’d clear after fees if you sold today. Built for people who buy to flip rather than to keep.
The same collection measured against what you paid rather than what it was worth when you saved it. Two baselines answer two different questions, and both can be right at once — your binder can read down on the month while your portfolio reads up since you bought.
You run a shop or break boxes, and pricing one card at a time isn’t a workflow.
Lay a table of cards out, photograph the lot, and get every one identified and priced in a single pass. Straight into inventory, ready for a break or a case.
A price-check screen with your shop’s name, logo and colors for the counter tablet or a staff phone. A customer selling a card sees your offer; a customer buying sees your price — both from percentages you set. The sold prices, sales chart and warnings stay behind a staff PIN, and on a card with mixed sales it says “Let us check this one” instead of guessing.
Grading costs money per card and takes months. Worth knowing before you pay.
Photograph a card and get an honest estimate of the grade range, with centering, corners, edges and surface scored separately. It’s a range, not a promise — a camera can’t see the fine scratches a grader catches under magnification, and CardGauge says so rather than pretending otherwise.
Not everything has to be about money.
Completed sales as CardGauge records them — usually a couple of thousand a day. How many sold today, the biggest ones, and a feed of what just came in. Every row shows when the card sold and, separately, when we found it, because those are two different moments. No sign-in, and nothing on it is an asking price.
Fifty Pokémon cards from Base Set Charizard to modern alt arts. Vote Pull, Protect, Pass or Grail and leave your take. Prices there are hand-checked snapshots with the date shown; for a current price, scan the card.
Sixty cards that were moving up or sliding when they were last checked, with the community’s buy, hold or sell vote on each. The prices are dated snapshots, not live quotes.
The newest cards listed on eBay for under five dollars — Pokémon, rookies, vintage and refractors — with the postage shown next to the price. Just cheap cards to browse, no predictions.
What $100 in a 2018 Ohtani rookie would be worth today against $100 in Apple. Sometimes the card wins.
Seeing what a card sold for is free to try: 3 scans with no account, then 10 a month with a free account. Paying starts in four places: more than 10 scans a month, keeping more than 25 cards in your binder, more than one buy ceiling a day, and more than one Deal Desk deal a day.
The short version.
Every scan shows what the card actually sold for — 3 with no account, then 10 a month with a free account. Pro is for scanning more than that, and for the work built on top of the number: the most you can pay and still clear a margin after fees and postage, more than once a day, the Deal Desk, and a binder that reprices itself overnight.
A refused buy ceiling is never charged for. When the sales are too thin or too mixed to trust, CardGauge says so and that never uses up a free buy ceiling — it would be a strange business that billed you for the word “no”.
CardGauge doesn’t buy or sell cards and takes no cut when you sell, so there’s no reason to inflate a number. We earn a small commission if you buy through our eBay, TCGPlayer or Fanatics links, which costs you nothing and doesn’t change the prices shown.
Every price links to the sales it came from, so you can check the work. When the sales behind a number are mixed or too thin, CardGauge says so rather than quietly averaging them.